Transcendence 5-22-12

DELAYED POSTING FROM BERGEN NORWAY

Bergen, Norway

The thin shroud of cloud I mentioned yesterday gave way and Bergen proves to be a colorful, clean, solidly-built city in a rather grand setting in brilliant sun. Getting a clear day here is a big deal as this region of the world has some of the densest cloud cover with often-heavy rain nearly three quarters of the time.

Bergen has a splendid funicular, a traction tram ascending Mt. Flojen, affording a spectacular view of a metro area of a quarter million residents on clear days. Traction tram railways are much like ski-lifts, offering rather splendid quickly-changing views as one ascends steep terrain. The sensibility is not unlike hot air balloons dropping ballast and released to free flight. We hit the weather jackpot today.

Acquiring a wide-angle lens two weeks ago proved a rather grand plan, as Mt Flojen affords vast panoramic views of the city below with mountains and harbors providing fine topography to capture with cameras. I can only hope carrying tripods, bags, and several cameras give me the appearance of a field-trained photographer rather than a gawking tourist. The reality is I’m a gawking tourist despite taking thousands of images and filling multiple drives.

As in all Scandinavian countries, local and national economies derive their economic resources from the sea. Fine fresh fish markets are prominent and the one here in Bergen makes me wish for a way to transport wondrous huge salmon fillets to one of my freezers. I will have to be content eating it on site and taking pictures of it. I’m having it daily along with sprinklings of capers. To reiterate, my creative absence does not include fasting in any way.

Churches are much smaller and less prominent in the urban landscape here. However, the Lutheran Cathedral of St. Olaf and the parish church of Korskirken did provide interesting photo ops. The original building at Korskirken dates from 1100 AD with the newest parts dating from about 1610 AD. The history suggests the church once had a vibrant role in public life here. It’s no longer used as a church per se but does find use as a cultural venue and a mission for homeless, addicted, and mentally challenged individuals. A crew came into set up sound stages and lighting trees for a music festival within minutes of my completing a photo survey of the interior. My timing could not have been better.

The Bergenhus Festning is an extensive complex of castle structures and fortifications reminding me, as virtually every place does, of the consistently warlike and adversarial nature of people when given too much money or power. I’m reminded of a powerful explorer/warrior mindset dating back thirteen hundred years in this region. The Bergenhus Festning at present makes a fine place for gawking tourists to climb around and pretend to be working for National Geographic on dangerous field assignments. One could certainly die taking pictures of this fortification as railings on high ramparts are considered an unnecessary site improvement; a good thing for photos but demanding one pay attention and never back up for a wide-angle shot.

Dinner was about five courses with Norwegian chowder, mountain trout, and other delights of the region. Life is tasty and cool. The hot muggy American south is forgotten in this cool near-arctic climate. I imagine I will be longing for this cool air again in a few weeks.